((Edit: T. tells me she paid $15 for this little gem at some random antique store in ME.))
(If this gets a bit fuzzy in some of the words, please forgive me... post-surgery days are always a bit fun when it comes to broken thoughts). Fortunately for you, I took excellent notes & hopefully good pictures.
Here you can see the 1/2 view of the chemise, which shows the shape of the side seams quite well.
Here is the chemise laid out flat in all its wrinkled glory.
It is made from a very tight weave fine linen, with a small twill tape trim on the sleeves. Seams are welted to the Outside, or butted and whip stitched. Neck binding is pieced & cut on the grain, and folded over to the inside. There are 11-24 stitches per inch depending on where & what technique was used. It is a very fine piece of workmanship.
The chemise measures as follows:
Front neck - hem: 38.5"
Back neck - hem: 40"
Back width: 21"
Neck-hole width: 13"
Shoulder width: 4"
Bust (flat) 24" (total of 48")
Hips: 29" flat (total of 58")
Hem: 76" total
Side gores: 20.25 long, 7.25 wide (2 on each side)
Sleeve length: 7.5" with 0.25" trim
Sleeve width: 12" (total)
Sleeve gusset: 4x4 finished
Sleeve set in: 10" down
Distance between gores on side seam 16" (side of chemise)
Hem turn-over: 0.75"
In no particular order...
The neckline is cut 13" wide, and 2.5" down in the back, 4.5" down in front (finished), on an oval shape.
The binding strip was cut on the straight, in pieces to help go around the corners, and then turned under and hem-stitched to the inside. The first seam is about 15 stitches per inch (the one attaching the binding strips), which you can see in places on the outside edge. The hemming was done with 11 stitches per inch. for a 1/8" - 1/4" wide finished hem... it is narrower going around the curves.
You can see (picture at top) where "Goodridge 1823" was printed in what I believe is walnut ink at the CF edge, (I can't be sure of this as age may have dulled the original color).
The sleeves were constructed as one component and set in the side seam... again, all seams are on the outside, except for the hem on the cuff, which is turned under and overcast, and the twill-tape trim folded into shape and tack-stitched to that.
There are minor sweat stains on the front bustline where a corset would have pressed the cloth to her body, also around the back.
There is one small repaired tare along the bottom hemline that is so well done I was amazed that we found it. It was certainly made by the original owner, as the stitching is identical to the rest of the garment.
The purpose of making this blog post was to show an original 1823 chemise to the public for free use. The original "Goodridge 1823" chemise is privately owned, and I have full permission in the form of a big "Yes Please!" to publish the particulars. It is our hope that this will help you in your research & costuming adventures, no matter what they may be. We do ask that you not use this post to profit commercially (ie, make a pattern for sale), as those permissions are separate, but please do use it for educational & recreational reasons!
As this chemise is almost the same as any chemise/shift from the 1650's on, it would not be possible to prove our case, but please be honorable.