Sunday, March 29, 2009

Analyzing and re-creating paintings 1500's


I have nothing on hand for this century, and I'm really looking forward to making 2 or 3 completed outfits. I've made bits and pieces for customers & friends, but never anything as a whole.

EDIT: 8/17/12 - Again, having learned quite a bit in the last few years, I'm editing so beginners don't look at this & say "gee, what a great idea!" on something that is incorrect or questionable.

Tiziano Vecellio
Shift: linen. Body & sleeves joined by narrow bias band. Long sleeves, no cuff.
Shawl: rose silk or velvet with floral design
Loose flower buds in hand
Black background.
This will be easy to do, I've got the material, and if I can convince one of my friends to be Flora I'll be good to go.

Edit: 8/12.  I've made this shift a bunch of times since then, it's a great pattern.  Use a straight band, not a bias.  Ties are good, drawstrings controversial.  Cotton & silk were in use at this time, but there is little evidence that they were used for undergarments until the late 1700's, more commonly in the mid-late 1800's.  Linen is THE safest fabric to use for shifts/smocks/shirts there is through all eras.  Linen/cotton if you must, but linen wears better, washes better, is more comfortable in all weather & we know it was used the most of any fabric for this purpose.

3 German Ladies
Lucas Craunch
Center lady
Shift: sheer linen / cotton with embroidery, closes in front
Side front closing dress: Red velvet, sleeves & skirt. Red silk/satin brocade, cuffs, belt, side front, side back. Red silk/satin embroidery: chest & back. White linen: stomacher underdress & elbows. Lacing, black cord, sleeves & stomacher.
Cartridge pleat the skirt, close front with hooks & eyes or rings & laces.
Jewelry: red velvet choker w/ jewels, closes in back. Red ribbon chain necklace.
Hat: gold band, red silk snood hair net with beads, red wool / velvet hat, 7or 8 white feathers
Makeup: red lipstick, blush, light foundation, black eyeliner
black background.
I'm really looking forward to doing this one. It's very complex, and I probably won't be able to afford natural fabrics, but I think I can make it from scraps that I've got laying around. The colors may end up being blue or green though. 
Edit: 8/12. NOOO!  Don't do blue!!!  Feew... used all that blue velvet for something else years ago, thank the fashion gods for that.  Seriously, no blue for this style dress.  Just don't.

Lady Jane Gray/ Katherine Parr, wife of Henry VIII
Artist unknown to me?
Spanish Farthingale
Bum roll? if one, it's small. (edit 8/12: yes, wear a bumroll please)
Forepart: red geometric brocade, red cotton in back.
Overskirt: tan / gold semi-floral brocade
Bodice: side closure, tan / gold semi-floral brocade for body & upper sleeves. Lower sleeves red brocade, white linen & fur. Neckline: red jewel trim, white linen lace cuffs.
Beaded belt with tassle
Rings & 2 necklaces
Double arch hat / French Hood: beads, lace & brocade fabric?
Standing on persian rug, dark background.
This is one that I'm not looking forward to. I like the shapes, but don't like the individual elements. I actually prefer the 1555 Katherina de Medici, but can't find a really good image of that... so I'm using Jane Gray as my jumping off point for the Katherina gown (which is pink & black). BUT Jane Gray had a much cooler life than Katherina... so I don't know. This one will be a while in any case. <--I wasn't kidding (2012).

Edit 8/12: I'm actually building a dress in this style right now, as we speak.  Using The Tudor Tailor book as a jumping off point & finding that their patterns are quite decent (worth it, but you'd better know what you are doing, or buy the sized patterns).  Rather than going Nobility though, I'm scaling it back to the general Western European early 16th c. dress that was so very common.  One thing I will tell you, this outfit is a lot more complex than I originally thought. Those sleeves will be the death of me.

Portrait of a woman: Bianca Anguissola
Sofonisba Anguissola
Bum Roll
Effigy corset (strapless) Boned bodice/gown
Shift: linen v-neck embroidered neckline, full sleeves, ruffle cuffs.
Bodice & skirt: gold silk / satin with brown squares, side or back closing?
Detachable sleeves: tied on with dk brown cord
Flea fur on gold belt-chain.
Jewelry: Pearl necklace with pendant, silver chain necklace, 3 standing stone rings, pendant earrings.
Coif: embroidered linen
Sitting in a scroll chair holding flea fur.
I'm really looking forward to this one. I just have to find the right model (it's not me). The fabric should be easy, it's pretty popular, and I've seen it in several fabric stores for a reasonable price. It may be synthetic, but I'll go with it anyway.<-- NOOOO!!!! Don't Do it!!!  That much work is wasted on synthetic fabric.  I've LEARNED.  I also know who I want to model for this, she's a dead ringer.  I think she'll be game for it too, but this is still a very long way away (2012).

Fruit Seller
Vicenzo Campe
Shift: linen, ruffled cuffs, white lace at neckline.
Kirtle: gray / green wool with gold trim
Apron: natural linen
Partlet: sheer cream fabric, standing ruff
Necklace: red wood beads
Hair up in a coiled braid, sitting outside with peaches in lap. Fruit baskets: beans, peas, cherries, pears, peaches, asparagus, some flowers (edible?)
Field & hills in background.
Easy-peesy Boss! I've loved this painting since I first saw it. Just have to find the right model, I think I've got almost all the fabric.<-- Have also learned that this is a Pastoral portrait of a very wealthy woman posing as a fruit seller, not a genera painting.  Note to Self: Use the Fish Monger images vs. this one if you want a genuine genera painting of working class folks. (2012)

The Tailor
Giovanni Battista
Shirt: linen, ruffled cuffs & collar
Doublet: leather / cream wool / silk, slashed, buttons in front
Melon Hose & codpiece: red wool / silk
sword belt: leather with metal buckle & rings
Table & sheers
Brown / gold room with light coming in.
Now I'm confused. I found this better image, and before I was 100% sure his doublet was leather. Now I'm thinking it might be wool. It really looks like leather to me. Input? I've got all the material and the doublet pattern. I will have to make a pattern for the melon hose, but I know where to find a good one.
^^Unfortunately, no modern man on earth wants to wear melon breeches even for a paid photograph, so I'm SOL on this fantastic portrait.  Still love it. (2012)

Henry VIII
Hans Holbein the Younger
Shirt: linen, white. turn down collar with small ruffle edge. Ruffled cuffs
Hose: white silk/wool
Garters: 1 white silk/wool. 1 dark red edged in gold
Shoes: white leather, squared toes
Doublet: silver brocade, closes in front, slashes with buttonhole stitch. Jewels between sleeve slashes / panels.
Jerkin: silver silk with striped motif. Open at chest, knee length skirts.
Belt: linen cord
Codpiece: silver silk with linen puffs
Gown: red wool lined with brown velvet. Celtic motif embroidery? Gold braid trim.
Hat:Dark brown velvet brim, red wool top, jeweled brim, white feathers.
Jewelry: 4 rings with stones. 1 gold chain with medallion. Shoulder chain, gold & silver with gems.
Persian rug, celtic motif curtain.
Yes, it's over-done. But as a costumer and history buff, how can I resist? I thought about using one of the other portraits and guessing at his bottom half, but with this right here... well, impossible to resist. My cousin Dave is perfect for Henry VIII, and I think he would do it if I asked. Getting the material will take a while.

OK, Cousin Dave is NOT game for this, though he does think it's funny that he looks like Henry 8.  I am making this type of outfit for my husband, but using the Thomas Moore Family Portrait as a reference vs. this monstrosity.  No offense what-so-ever to anyone who has made it, it's just been done so much it's overdone...  We have enough Henry's to fill a jousting tournament with wounded.  I'll leave the Nobility to the Nobles & worry about being this intricate when I'm retired.  (2012)

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