Sunday, March 29, 2009

Analyzing and re-creating paintings 1600's


I've got some stuff on hand for this century. The problem I'm running into is that I LOVE women's clothes from the 17th century, but HATE men's clothes. So I'm still searching for a good painting of a man that I actually want to work with.

((Edited 2012 for bone-headed beginner mistakes.))

A woman bathing
Shift: cotton / linen white (no, really... it needs to be linen, OK?)
Hair up, wading in stream
She also has her dress on the bank behind her, but it's not really important to the composition, so I'll be able to use just about any garments from this century tossed in a heap.

(2012) Believe it or not, this type of shift magically stays in place once you have your clothes on over it.  Do not put a drawstring in the V-neck shifts, just hem & let them go.  You may want to add a small reinforcement patch or stitching to the bottom of the V so our cheap modern linen doesn't tare down the front to your belly-button -- voice of experience talking here)

Dutch Lacemaker
Caspar Netscher
Coif: embrodiered linen
Shift: linen
Bodice: red wool lined with white linen or cotton wool, boned. (cotton was starting to be used in this era, but was still uncommon - it IS an option.)
Skirt: black/dk blue wool lined with white cotton wool or linen
White room, plank floor. Low ladder-back chair with cane seat. Broom & landscape print tacked to the wall.
Tatting block.
Do I really have to put the oyster shells in there?
On a fun note, my friend Jillian makes brooms like this at a fantastic price.  Find her on Etsy under Lady of Letters. (2012)

Maria de Tessas
Van Dyke
Shift: white linen / sheer cotton silk
Boned bodice: white satin, gold trim
Detachable sleeves: white satin undersleeve, white satin pained sleeve, gold trim.
Petticoat: white satin
Stomacher: white satin, gold trim
Gown: black satin, gold trim / embroidery?
Partlet / Ruff: sheer white linen & lace
Ribbons: pink satin at waist & elbow
Jewelry: pearl choker. Pear chest strand. Gold cross choker/ pendant. Gold cross broach
plume fan
Dark room, corner. frizzed hair powdered gray.

Agatha Bass
Shift: white linen
Partlet: white linen, close to neck
Petticoat: pink brocade
Bodice: boned, black satin / wool. Open front with laces for stomacher. Sleeves: 2 piece, open in front with black ties every 4".
Stomacher: white/ cream brocade. Lacing guides down center. White lace trim, black lacing for bodice.
Collar: linen & lace, white
Cuffs: linen & lace, white.
Coif: linen.
Jewelry: teardrop broach, double strand pearl choker, double strand pear bracelet on each wrist.
Sandalwood fan
Hair up, frizzed at sides.
Standing in archway window.

Comtesse de Mailly
Artist: ?
Spanish Farthingale (vertical & horizontal supports)
shift: white linen / cotton with sleeve & neck ruffles
Stays: formal with shoulder straps
Petticoat: gold geometric band, brocade
Overskirt: burgundy silk
Bodice: red brocade silk, black velvet trim, red satin ribbons
Gloves: white satin/silk
Fontage: white lace, red silk.
Fan, pearl choker, face patches.
Standing at the top of stairs in a formal garden.
(2012)  I've made a few mantuas since I posted this & let me tell you, they are E-A-S-Y.  The pleating is a real pain, but once you get the hang of draping on the body - and you must drape on the body, it's easy as pie.  They take forever, but are not difficult at all.  Really & truly.  In this case, hand sewing is the best option & worth the time to do it right.  Machine the side seams & the skirt side seams, the rest by hand.

Luxury in, Look out!
Jan Stein
Young Woman:
Shift: linen
Bodice: yellow silk lined with white linen
Petticoat: yellow silk
Sash: blue satin
Cap: white linen
Collar / modesty cloth: white linen
Pitcher, V glass
Young Man:
Shirt: white linen
Hoes: white silk
Jacket & breeches: brown silk lined with red silk, red & white ribbons on legs
Collar: linen, white.

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